20 Vartag

I don't do primer pockets except to swage them if they were crimped.
I do almost the minimalist in my opinion on my PD rounds and varmint loads.
Now my deer and more powder burning ,223wssm, loads ill take more time in prepping the brass.
And if I were to get into long range competition shooting I know I'd have to to get good results.
 
I don't do primer pockets except to swage them if they were crimped.
I do almost the minimalist in my opinion on my PD rounds and varmint loads.
Now my deer and more powder burning ,223wssm, loads ill take more time in prepping the brass.
And if I were to get into long range competition shooting I know I'd have to to get good results.
You would be surprised at some of the really good BR how less brass prep they do anymore. I know one who if he keeps going with his 300WSM like he has started the year he will break the agg record. He runs unturned Nk Lapua brass.
The days of everything tight on BR stuff on just about all BR guys and primer pocket work has gone by the wayside by some good ones.
I really don't do anything different on my LR hunting guns that I do on my rat guns.
All get sized with bushing only, .003 bump, necks brushed with stiff nylon brush then powder and seat.
I do turn necks on stuff I have to that I neck down and make but about half of the LR hunting guns I dont but I won't run anything but Lapua or ADG brass.
In my opinion good prepped brass is were it all starts for accuracy.
At the end of the day testing is alot of work and time so your goals may very I always try to get the most out of any gun I load and shoot for.
Some things may not work for everybody but I'm willing to bet that crimping if it helps then more nk tension will.
 
That's good to know Sherm.
I try to keep it simple now on my brass prep because some steps didn't seem to give me the results I thought I'd get with the extra steps and time put in which seemed to be wasted time I could have done other stuff.
Thanks, Now I don't feel that I'm slacking in my reloading steps.
 
Been watching the posts, interesting back and forth. After I finally figured out how to make my own 20VT brass, I had learned a lot, just by doing the annealing regularly, and neck turning, and using bushings, and so on. I do uniform the primer pockets as I use LC brass, and after I fire them I clean the pockets with the same K&M uniformer, as it's easiest.

I used to ultrasonic clean my brass after firing, pretty much any caliber, now I don't. I watched a video by Eric Cortina, where he figured out it was as waste of time, so now I just brush the neck interiors with a nylon brush. With the Vartarg brass, as it fireforms in the first firing, I don't bump, just pretty much neck size, and make sure the brass chambers fine, and load and shoot.

I don't crimp any of my varmint ammo (I don't shoot matches, just critters), though have a friend who read the Lee copy on their FCD and was convinced it was a necessary step on all his ammo from there-on-out.

I just try to have consistent neck tension. I used to only bushing size, but have decided now to bushing size down and use the expander to uniform the ID on the necks, as that makes any slight variation of neck thickness less relevant.

And on my newly formed 20VT and 17M4 brass I do coat the inside of the necks with Neolube #2 (graphite coating), as it makes the first bullet seating. and release. more consistent. I figure the carbon from fired brass (minus a light brushing) will be enough of a "lube" for the necks, and they do seat a LOT easier once fired.
 
Those groups I posted of my 20BRA here i think and accurate shooter are non- annealed brass, unturned necks just necked down 6BR Lapua brass to 20 cal..
I will say if you run mediocre brass then weight sorting and some PP work does help. For along time I ran WW 270WSM brass for my 6.5x300wsm the only way I could get rid of flyers was weight sort and work on the PP but now I run ADG 300WSM brass and all I have to do is turn the necks they are to thick after necking down from 30 cal
 
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