20 Vartag

The 20 VT has become a favorite caliber for me, as I shoot sage rats a lot, and it's just a wonderful accurate round. A member here got me introduced to it over lunch, and said "Doug, you need a 20 Vartarg!" And I said "I do?" and he was right! I'm amazed it's not a SAAMI spec cartridge yet, but you can get dies from a number of makers, but no brass from brass makers, yet.

I make 20VT brass, and sell it on Accurate Shooter, if anyone here is interested. The Classified area is not set up here yet, but I wanted to let fellow members know it's available.

I decided, when I got the rifle that I would learn to make the brass from Lake City 5.56, I had a lot of LC at the time, and I like the brass. It was a challenge to perfect it, but worth it for me. My favorite powders are N120 and RL-7, with Rem 7 1/2 primers. Other powders are good too, but those were the ones that ended up best in my barrel.

My rifle is built on a Sako L46, with a Shilen barrel. I'm curious what others have on here.
 
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Hey! I think I may know that lunchtime member who perverted you into the 20VT world! ;)

Good to see you here Doug. (y)

My 20VT has just passed the 5K round count, and last time I put her on paper, she's still shooting the 32gr NBT or Vdgn into 1/4" over RL-7.
Cooper M38 VR, Jard 10oz trigger, Leupold VX3-6.5-20X LR w/M1 Elevation turret factory installed:



When the groups open up, I'll rebarrel, but for now, she's still goin' strong as-is. What a great little caliber and easy on barrels to boot!

Edit: If anyone is in need of 20VT brass (and some other small calibers), Doug (TheCZKid) is the one to go to. Quality work, decent prices, good delivery. Highly recommended. (y)
 
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I have two Coopers in 20vt and like Doug and y'all I can't imagine why this round hasn't yet become a production item. My best shot was on a pd in Montana at 542 yards with a 32 grain vmax and N130. The accuracy and low barrel heat are definitely contributing factors to why it will always be in my stable. Plus it's so dang cute, kinda like mighty mouse 🐁
Matt
 
The easiest way to make brass for this is size 17 Fireball up, or 221 FB down. Of course, I had to do it the hard way! Took quite a bit of research and practice, but my donor brass of choice is Lake City 5.56, and through a bunch of steps, convert it into cute little 20 Vartarg brass. Currently, Lapua no longer makes 221 FB, and Remington doesn't have any on the market, but you can get Nosler 17 FB brass. These are the main stages, (along with trimming, annealing, neck turning, etc).

Forming Brass flat.jpg
 
The easiest way to make brass for this is size 17 Fireball up, or 221 FB down. Of course, I had to do it the hard way! Took quite a bit of research and practice, but my donor brass of choice is Lake City 5.56, and through a bunch of steps, convert it into cute little 20 Vartarg brass. Currently, Lapua no longer makes 221 FB, and Remington doesn't have any on the market, but you can get Nosler 17 FB brass. These are the main stages, (along with trimming, annealing, neck turning, etc).

View attachment 147
1764600848186.jpeg
Your pictures are better than mine. Redding 221 forming die set and their bushing die.
 
The easiest way to make brass for this is size 17 Fireball up, or 221 FB down. Of course, I had to do it the hard way! Took quite a bit of research and practice, but my donor brass of choice is Lake City 5.56, and through a bunch of steps, convert it into cute little 20 Vartarg brass. Currently, Lapua no longer makes 221 FB, and Remington doesn't have any on the market, but you can get Nosler 17 FB brass. These are the main stages, (along with trimming, annealing, neck turning, etc).

View attachment 147
What diameter does the Redding 90101 forming die take the body where the neck will be down to?

Kiwi
 
What diameter does the Redding 90101 forming die take the body where the neck will be down to?

Kiwi
The first forming takes the neck to .2975" diameter. The bushing die, with no bushing, takes it to .2500". I size the first two, and then anneal the neck and shoulder, and do the 3rd final sizing with the body die. Otherwise, the brass is getting very work hardened, and can have issues getting a consistent amount of shoulder height, etc.
 
The first forming takes the neck to .2975" diameter. The bushing die, with no bushing, takes it to .2500". I size the first two, and then anneal the neck and shoulder, and do the 3rd final sizing with the body die. Otherwise, the brass is getting very work hardened, and can have issues getting a consistent amount of shoulder height, etc.
Thanks, I've got some of your 20 Vartarg brass but I may have the easy way covered also as I've got 500 x 221 Remington cases.

Those Redding 90101 forming dies aren't easy to come by and aren't cheap when you do find them, so a bushing for my Skip Otto form die might be the solution.

Kiwi
 
Thanks, I've got some of your 20 Vartarg brass but I may have the easy way covered also as I've got 500 x 221 Remington cases.

Those Redding 90101 forming dies aren't easy to come by and aren't cheap when you do find them, so a bushing for my Skip Otto form die might be the solution.

Kiwi
Since you're in New Zealand, I'm curious how you got ahold of some of my 20VT brass?
In case you need more, I have 1300 currently available, and also have 50 of Remington 221 FB brass, and 200 I made from Lake City.
 
2016-02 tooling 003 small.jpg
Others have used the Harbor Freight miniature chop saw, but I did a wood-working project instead. This is to get the .223 and .222 cases to the approximate length after going through the .221 forming dies. The Dremel cut-off wheel works fine. Still on my first one. I do wear a face shield when using it, since they probably don't fail gracefully.
 
1764679407846.png

Case weight may be an indicator of case volume. Here's what I've found. All cases finished and neck-turned if required. I've ignored any difference in extraction groove.
 
View attachment 234
Others have used the Harbor Freight miniature chop saw, but I did a wood-working project instead. This is to get the .223 and .222 cases to the approximate length after going through the .221 forming dies. The Dremel cut-off wheel works fine. Still on my first one. I do wear a face shield when using it, since they probably don't fail gracefully.
That's very nice.
Could you possibly put a plexiglass shield over it?
 
Since you're in New Zealand, I'm curious how you got ahold of some of my 20VT brass?
In case you need more, I have 1300 currently available, and also have 50 of Remington 221 FB brass, and 200 I made from Lake City.
It was quite a while ago, a buddy bought them and I bought them off him when I was in the USA and bought them back.
 
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